"While we tasting the wine and enjoying their beauty, we just the end of consumer but we don't totally understand the process of wine making? A real wine-lover should chase the beginning of process, the ingredients, terroir, and so on, because that's the source for building the beautiful flavor of wine" said by Dr. Chen Chien Hao.
Regenerating the Disappeared Existed Saka Mai 酒米 (Sake Rice) of Taiwan
Taiwan's tobacco and alcohol monopoly system began in 1907 during the time when Japanese were governing Taiwan. The Nationalist Government continued this monopoly system in their early ruling time after they came to Taiwan. In 2001, Taiwan's accession to the World Trade Organization (WTO), the Taiwan's tobacco and alcohol monopoly system was ceased and became the history, the private industries and wineries were allowed to establish. Even though there are more than 500 companies have obtained brewing licenses till today, however, due to the long-term history of the monopoly system, wine production and brewing are still unfamiliar to the academic or industrial circles in Taiwan. It is an industry that with few or no traditional precedents to follow. Generally speaking, lacking high-quality brewing equipment and relevant technical supporting of government and academic institutes, the development of the private brewing industries was restricted.
Hot climate and the normal dramatic change on temperature between day and night, the famous Saka Mai 酒米 (sake rice) such as Yamada Nishiki cannot grow with abundant starchy whites to make good sake in Taiwan. However, according to the book "Taiwan Liquor Before the Monopoly System" published by Ryo Sugimoto in 1932, it stated clearly "main corps used for winemaking in Taiwan were rice, sweet potatoes, sorghum and sugar cane before the implementation of the monopoly system". This record indicated that the rice and other corps had ever used as main ingredients for brewing in Taiwan. However, somehow this winemaking history with using local corps had lost for many years, one of reasons is Taiwan's government encourage the farmers to grow more edible rice but Saka Mai 酒米 (sake rice) at present. It is not only resulting in huge financial losses due to the edible rice will be sold as feed rice if they cannot be consumed within three years, but also let the variety of sake rice disappeared gradually in the corps' field. Unfortunately, it keeps happening in Taiwan with less awareness.
"I heard about Saka Mai 酒米 (sake rice) when I started farming about 10 years ago. Saka Mai 酒米 (sake rice) is a characteristic rice variety in Ji'an Township, Hualien County. The grains of this rice are large with big starchy white, it is very suitable for making high quality sake. I didn't farm this sake rice until the third year after I start farming. In the beginning, I only planted in a small field and harvested a small amount of rice and sold next year. Until last year (the ninth year after I start farming), the field that we have planted for this Saka Mai 酒米 (sake rice) was more than one hectare of farming area. Today, commercial mass production has begun in Ji'an and Shoufeng Township in Hualien County" said by Mr. Lan Yu Sheng, a Ji'an contracted farmer.
"I would like to grow this Saka Mai 酒米 (sake rice) because it is a local specialty variety that good for making sake, but it is always used as edible rice. I started to understand sake rice after I went to Japan and have drink high quality sake there. I recognized that the results of sake brewing can be improved in Taiwan if the technology and equipment of the brewery improve. Taiwan's rice is over-produced, it will help to consume the over-produced rice if some rice can be used as the ingredient for wine processing. According to the experience of Japan, the price of sake rice is about 1.5 times higher than that of ordinary edible rice, of course, the quality requirements are also relatively higher. It will not only ask the farmers have to aware more on quality of production than rate of that, but also will increase their income if they start to plant this sake rice with care" said by Dr. Chen Chien Hao.
The purpose of this project is to incorporate the knowhow of university to the society and try to regenerate an extinct agriculture corps and a technique of people's livelihood industry of Taiwan---it is the spirit of University Social Responsibility (USR). The first phase of this project is to cooperate with the Kaohsiung and Hualien District Agricultural Research and Extension Station to select an existed rice variety which meets the characteristics of good sake rice for brewing, and then to cultivate and regenerate those sake rice with farmers together to retrieve this disappeared existed good Saka Mai 酒米 (sake rice) of Taiwan. The second phase of this project is to cooperate with the private wineries to brew the high quality sake by using this regenerating Saka Mai 酒米 (sake rice). The knowhow of wine service and pairing of wine and food for this sake from university will be introduced into the project as well. Through operating this project, the teachers and students of university will join into the project, they will contribute what they have known to this practice and also learn from this practice. The expecting outcomes of this project were bringing the resources of university into the society to regenerate the disappeared existed agriculture corps and people's livelihood industry, furthermore, to prompt the "Regional Revitalization". The talents of university will be cultivated as well through operating this project. All processes will be filmed for the further record, it will record how a local terroir wine of Taiwan was bred, and how to increase high economic value of an ordinal crop which turn a primary industry into a sixth-level high added value industry.